TIPS & F.A.Q.
Find answers to the most common HVAC questions homeowners like yourself ask us. If you want a quick answer to a question you can’t find below, contact us, and we will get you the answer!
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Heat Pump TIPS & F.A.Q.
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An air source heat pump is like a traditional split air conditioning system, except it is designed to work in both summer and winter to condition your home efficiently. In the winter, a heat pump extracts heat from the cold outdoor air and transfers it indoors. In the summer, it pulls heat out of indoor space to cool your home. They are powered by electricity and transfer heat using refrigerant to provide comfort all year round.
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Several types of heat pumps are appropriate choices in our area:
Ducted air source heat pumps: Ducted split heat pumps have been a common choice for homeowners in relatively mild climates for decades. Traditionally, they require backup or supplemental heat when the outdoor temperature drops near or below freezing. Modern split heat pumps are now much more efficient. They can operate efficiently well below freezing, but in colder climates, they will likely still need supplemental heat from electric resistance elements or a gas furnace as part of a dual fuel system.
Ductless mini split heat pumps: If your home does not have an existing duct system, or you are adding a conditioned space that cannot be served by your current HVAC system, a ductless mini split heat pump is an excellent choice. An outdoor unit is combined with one, or as many as eight indoor units, each with its zone controls. Mini split indoor units come in a variety of configurations and typically do not require ductwork. In frigid climates, ductless mini split heat pump systems offer rate capacity and efficiency well below 0°F and may not need any supplemental or backup heating system.
Water source or ground source heat pumps: Also known as geothermal heat pumps, (GHPs) this class of heat pumps uses the earth's constant temperature as the exchange medium instead of outside air. While outdoor air temperatures vary from very cold to extremely warm throughout our area, ground temperature below a few feet remains virtually constant. Because of this constant temperature, GHPs are highly efficient and do not require backup or supplemental heat on cold days. While GHPs are relatively costly to install they often offer the lowest ongoing operating cost.
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Modern heat pumps are efficient for both heating and cooling operations. Some heat pumps can provide heat up to 400% efficiency, with most days in the Fraser Valley being above 200%.
SEER, or the Season Energy Efficiency Ratio, measures cooling efficiency. This is the ratio between the cooling output of an AC system seasonally divided by the energy consumption of the system. The higher the SEER rating, the more efficient the system is.
Heat efficiency is measured in HSPF (Heating Seasonal Performance Factor) for air source heat pumps. This is the ratio of seasonal heating output divided by the energy input of the system. The higher the HSPF, the more efficient the system is in heating.
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Traditionally, a heat pump system requires supplemental heating capacity in areas with colder climates and temperatures that fall well below freezing. Additional heating can come from various sources, but most typically come from electric resistance elements in the system air handler or a gas furnace for a dual fuel system. Supplemental heating is required because as the outdoor temperature drops the amount of heat needed to maintain indoor temperatures increases, and the output capacity and efficiency of an air source heat pump decreases. The thermal balance point is the temperature at which the heat loss of the structure exceeds the output capacity of the heat pump.
A supplemental heat source may not be required for cold-weather ductless heat pumps and ground source heat pumps designed within an efficient building envelope because the structure never reaches the thermal balance point, even in the coldest winter weather.
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Supplemental heat can run simultaneously with the heat pump system, allowing the heat pump always to provide the majority of heating. Backup heat has to shut down the heat pump system, handling the entire heating load independently. The most common backup heat system is known as dual-fuel or hybrid. This is a heat pump and fossil fuel furnace combination system. The heat pump must shut down before the furnace comes on because the air leaving the furnace and entering the indoor coil of the heat pump would be too hot for the heat pump to operate.
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A dual-fuel system combines and efficient air-source heat pump, combined with a gas furnace. Dual fuel systems alternate between the heat pump and gas furnace based on the outside temperature for minimum operating cost and maximum comfort.
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Ductless, mini split heat pumps are variable-speed HVAC systems that are good add-ons to houses with "non-ducted" heating systems, such as hydronic (hot water heat), radiant panels, and space heaters. They can also be a good choice for room additions where extending or installing distribution ductwork is not feasible and very efficient for new homes that require only a small space conditioning system. The main advantages of mini splits are their small size and flexibility for zoning or heating and cooling individual rooms. Mitsubishi models can have as many as eight indoor air-handling units connected to one outdoor unit. In homes with smaller heating and cooling loads, mini split heat pumps can offer highly efficient, environmentally sound indoor comfort.
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This refers to the type of compressor in your air conditioner or heat pump. Combined with a variable-speed indoor air handler or furnace, it creates the cooling capacity for your system. Variable speed compressors allow a unit to run at virtually any speed between 30% and 100% based on the needs of the conditioned space at any point in time. This ensures maximum efficiency, comfort, and dehumidification rates.
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When in heating mode, the outdoor unit of the heat pump system causes water to condense on it. If the outdoor temperature is near or below freezing, frost will form, which must be defrosted, causing water to drain from the unit.
When your system is cooling in the summer, your indoor unit will remove humidity from the air. Water forms on the indoor coil, which is collected in a drain pan. The drain pan is then attached with a pipe to your existing home’s plumbing system or pumped outside using a condensate pump in most cases.
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System zoning allows different parts of a conditioned space to be controlled independently with their own thermostat and operating conditions. The primary benefits of system zoning are improved comfort and energy savings. There are four common ways to provide system zoning in a conditioned space:
Ducted systems with zone dampers: Dampers within a duct system allow airflow to a portion of the heating and cooling system to be regulated and redirect air to specific home areas. Each zone is controlled with its thermostat.
Multi-zone mini split heat pump systems: A single outdoor heat pump unit feeding heating and cooling to two or more indoor units that are controlled independently.
Heat-only hydronic systems: A natural gas, LP, or oil boiler combined with an indoor distribution system that includes two or more heating zones. Their thermostat can control each heating zone by valves or pumps. Distribution methods can be combined and have hot water baseboards, hydronic unit heaters, or radiant floor heating.
Heating and cooling hydronic systems: A natural gas, LP, or oil boiler combined with two or more ducted hydronic air handlers, also typically containing refrigerant-based cooling coils for summer comfort. Outdoor condenser(s) are added to provide summer cooling operation.
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No. Typically, the air leaving your vents from a heat pump will be between 90°F (32°C) and 110°F (42°C), whereas a furnace will produce air between 120°F (49°C) and 140°F (60°C). Warming your cold feet over a floor register may not get the same warm rush. However, the lower temperatures combined with variable-speed heat pump systems will reduce temperature swings, resulting in more consistent comfort.
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For your heat pump to remove heat from the outside air, its outdoor coil must be at a lower temperature.
The moisture in the air passing through the coil will condense on the surface and form frost. The heat pump will sense when it needs to go into defrost, reversing the refrigeration cycle and clearing the frost.
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If your heat pump is running in heating during colder outdoor temperatures and has frost on it, this is most likely completely normal. The frost should eventually clear when it goes into defrost.
If your system has hard, translucent ice that isn’t clearing, your heat pump is most likely having issues.
Some possible causes are low refrigerant charge, airflow issues, operating outside of rated temperatures, sensor failure, etc.
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The lowest outdoor temperature for 99% of the year. An example is Chilliwack’s design temperature, which is -8°C compared to its record low temperature of around -18°C. On average, we only spend 88 hours a year at a lower outdoor temperature than the design. We size your heat pump to the design temperature and use a supplemental or backup system on days below the design temperature.
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To size your system for 1% of the year, on average, we would have to increase the size of the system by at least 33%. It is better for your comfort and the equipment to size it for 99% of the year and then supplement the heat pump for the remaining 1%.
Some problems that come with oversizing equipment include:
Shortened life span: Increased on/off cycling, shortening the lifespan of the equipment
Temperature swings: Increase temperature swings due to on/off cycling, as well as poor air distribution from short indoor fan run times
Noise: Louder system from increased airflow through ductwork and increased minimum run speed.
Mould: Cooling will do a poor job of removing humidity with shorter run times, potentially causing mould
Cost: Higher cost of equipment for a larger system
Heat Pumps
Looking for more information on heat pumps? Check out our information page or reach out to us!
Gas Furnace TIPS & F.A.Q.
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For a furnace replacement: The last thing you should do is replace your existing furnace with a furnace with the same input. Most existing furnaces are significantly oversized. An oversized furnace results in a more uncomfortable indoor environment with wide temperature swings, significant temperature differences from room to room, and a substantially noisier heating system. If you are considering a furnace replacement, ensure your contractor carefully evaluates your application and performs a complete, accurate heat load to size your system.
Heat loads are typically much smaller for new construction than in the past. Ensure your contractor performs a room-by-room heat loss/gain to ensure your heating and cooling system is appropriately sized in every room.
Bigger is NOT better when it comes to heating and cooling. Most heating systems are over-sized. An oversized furnace is noisier less comfortable, louder, and less efficient. An oversized cooling system will also not dehumidify properly.
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In areas where it is available, natural gas is the most common way to heat your home. Typically, older natural gas furnaces are 80% efficient or less. New natural gas furnaces have a minimum efficiency of 90% and are commonly available with efficiencies up to 97.5%, which can save a significant amount of energy.
With current (December 2023) utility costs in our area, you can expect a similar cost to heat your home with a high-efficiency natural gas furnace as a heat pump with an HSPF of 10 or greater. Geothermal heating costs are the lowest of all three options.
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We recommend Amercian Standard gas furnaces. With efficiencies of up to 97%, variable speed blowers, and Wi-Fi capabilities, they offer great value and comfort. In addition, rebates are locally available for American Standard hybrid systems that utilize a heat pump for heating and cooling.
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A new American Standard gas furnace is available with a high-efficiency variable speed blower motor (ECM) or a constant torque motor. An ECM motor runs on direct current and can operate over various speeds. As speed drops, electrical consumption drops proportionally. They consume between 60 and 100 watts/hour, saving the average homeowner about $250 a year in electrical costs! Constant torque motors are more efficient than traditional PSC blower motors but are not as flexible as a true ECM motor.
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Traditionally, gas furnaces have been single-stage: they are either off or on, operating at 100% of their capacity regardless of the required heat load. Single-stage furnaces cycle more, resulting in wider indoor air temperature swings and larger differences in indoor temperatures from room to room.
Two-stage or multi-stage gas furnaces operate at a lower output capacity most of the year based on either a multistage thermostat, an outdoor thermostat, or the onboard logic of the furnace control. When the furnace operates at a lower output level, the blower speed and heat output are lower, and the furnace will have longer, gentler furnace cycles. This improves indoor comfort and noise levels significantly.
Modulating gas furnaces can operate across a broad range of capacities based on the immediate needs of the building envelope. As the heat required changes, so does the furnace capacity. The result is significantly more comfortable and quieter operation and often lower operating costs. Variable-speed gas furnaces also improve air conditioning by allowing for staged or modulating cooling and much better dehumidification.
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A dual-fuel system combines an efficient air-source heat pump and a gas furnace. Dual-fuel systems alternate between the heat pump and gas furnace based on the outside temperature for maximum comfort and minimum operating costs.
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Almost all furnaces are shipped with a 1" thick filter. Its original purpose was to protect the furnace blower components from the accumulation of lint and dirt. A typical original furnace filter is made from spun fiberglass and does little more than prevent large dust particles, lint, and other debris from accumulating in your furnace and ductwork. If you want to filter the air in your home without reducing your system’s effectiveness by restricting airflow, you should consider installing a higher-quality system filter.
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Furnace effectiveness is measured by the MERV (minimum efficiency reporting value) rating. The higher the filter MERV rating, the more efficient it is at trapping particles. A typical 1" fiberglass filter has a MERV rating of 2-3. The highest MERV rating is 20. Other filter types:
Disposable pleated filters made of polyester or cotton paper. MERV rating: 6. Can remove some small particles like mold spores, but need to be changed frequently.
Polyester: This reusable filter is denser than fiberglass, so it blocks more airborne particulates, and it comes in either a flat or pleated version in thicknesses up to four inches. MERV rating: 8.
Electrostatic: An electrostatic filter contains self-charging electrostatic cotton or paper fibers that attract and trap small particles. MERV rating: 10.
4-5" High-efficiency pleated filter: Synthetic cotton within a tight leak-resistant frame. MERV rating 14-16.
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Properly maintained media filters do an excellent job removing dust, lint, pet hair, and mold spores from the airstream. However, they are ineffective in removing the smallest particles like bacteria, viruses, and smoke particles down to 0.01 microns. Electronic filters and media pre-filters can effectively remove these smallest particles.
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The colder a given air volume is, the less able it is to retain water vapor. So, the wintertime air outdoors has much less moisture than indoor or summertime outdoor air. An indoor environment can dry out when cold outdoor air migrates inside, reducing relative humidity to uncomfortable levels. Suppose your furnace uses interior air for combustion. In that case, this causes lower indoor air pressure and increases the amount of outdoor air drawn into the conditioned space to replace the air being discharged with the flue gases. The use of vented kitchen fans (without make-up air), or wood burning or chimney-vented gas fireplaces can also sharply increase the drying effect of winter air infiltration. A sealed combustion furnace, which draws combustion air from outdoors would eliminate this problem.
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Some filters can be changed as little as once a year, and others must be changed monthly. It depends on how restrictive your filters are and how much airflow resistance your system has been designed to handle. This can also vary based on your family and lifestyle. If you have pets or active kids, you must change your filters more often. If you have a higher MERV-rated media filter, it may clog more quickly and require more frequent changes. We choose to install wide pleated filters for our customers because the greater surface area allows us to filter smaller particles without restricting airflow too much.
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All furnace manufacturers recommend that your furnace be serviced annually by a trained HVAC professional. It should be serviced in spring and fall if used as part of a cooling system. Annual maintenance, including a thorough examination and cleaning of the parts that commonly malfunction, like the air filter, the fan, the vent, and the heat exchanger, will ensure safe operation, prolong equipment life, and sharply reduce the possibility of unanticipated failures.
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There are things you can check if your furnace does not turn on properly:
Check your fuel: If you have a gas furnace, ensure the gas supply is turned on at the meter and at the furnace.
Check your thermostat: Make sure your thermostat is "ON" is set to "HEAT," and the desired room temperature is set higher than the current ambient temperature.
Check your furnace power supply: Check your circuit breaker panel to ensure your heating system breaker is "ON." Check your system emergency switch to ensure it is on. This switch is typically a traditional toggle switch that may have a RED cover plate near the entry to your utility space.
Check your system air grills and registers: Ensure that both your supply and return air registers are free of obstructions.
Furnace filters: Change your furnace filter and re-start your furnace.
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Condensing furnaces, or furnaces with rated AFUE efficiencies of 90%+, can NOT be vented into a conventional chimney because flue-gas temperatures are too low to vent correctly. Condensing furnaces are typically vented with plastic venting like PVC either out the sidewall or through the roof. Condensation is produced as a by-product of combustion in condensing furnaces and must be adequately drained.
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Yes. This can be done in three ways:
On selected equipment, like those with iComfort® or Mitsubishi Kumo cloud technology, you can enjoy advanced complete system integration through their mobile app. These systems also enable contactless service tech integration and advanced control of other system components, such as IAQ equipment.
Home automation platforms like Apple HomeKit, Amazon Alexa, or Google Home Assistant offer complete heating and cooling integration with integrated system controls through the Apple, Alexa, or Google apps.
Many control manufacturers now offer wifi-enabled thermostats, controls, and companion apps with worldwide home integration via your smartphone.
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We would see older furnaces (80% efficiency and lower) last 20+ years. The simplicity and thicker raw materials caused them to last longer. With more complicated controls and acidic condensate running back through your furnace. From our experience, the life expectancy for high-efficiency (90%+) reduced to around 15 years.
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After your furnace has passed its life expectancy, it is worth considering upgrading to a more modern and efficient system if you have any significant repair costs.
Air Conditioner TIPS & F.A.Q.
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A properly designed cover that allows airflow for moisture to escape can help shield it from the elements. If you are covering your air conditioner, ensure the disconnect or breaker is switched off to prevent the system from running before it is uncovered in the spring.
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Two-stage operation means that the heat pump or air conditioner can operate at a fraction or maximum capacity on milder days and at total capacity only when needed. This results in longer system cycle times, lower sound levels, more consistent indoor temperatures, and enhanced dehumidification.
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The last thing you should do for a system replacement is replace your existing AC system with one with the same capacity. Many existing AC systems are significantly oversized. An oversized air conditioning system results in a more uncomfortable indoor environment with wide temperature swings, significant temperature differences from room to room, noisier operation, and significantly poorer indoor dehumidification. If you are considering an AC system replacement, ensure your contractor carefully evaluates your application and performs a complete, accurate air conditioning design load to size your system.
Heat gains are typically much smaller for new construction than in the past. Ensure your contractor performs a room-by-room heat loss/gain to ensure your heating and cooling system is appropriately sized in every room.
More significant is NOT better when it comes to heating and cooling. Most air conditioning systems are oversized. An oversized furnace is noisier less comfortable, louder, and less efficient. An extensive cooling system will also not dehumidify properly.
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If you have an existing duct system, there is an excellent chance conventional split central air conditioning can be added. It would be best to have a trained HVAC technician evaluate your duct system and adequately maintain room-by-room heat to ensure a properly designed system.
If you do not have an existing duct system, great central air conditioning is still within reach with a ductless mini-split system. These single- or multi-zone systems only require a 3" line between the indoor and outdoor systems. They come in a single-zone system or are available with up to 8 indoor zones from a single outdoor unit.
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Many air conditioners can last 15 to 20 years if maintained properly.
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The SEER (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio) rating measures central air conditioning efficiency. The SEER rating is derived by dividing the annual estimated cooling output (in BTUs) by the electric energy input. The higher the ratio, the more efficient the AC system.
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If your existing system is 15 - 20 years old or older, it is likely nearing the end of its service life, and it is significantly more expensive to operate than a new system would be. A system installed more than ten years ago probably has a rated SEER efficiency (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio) of 10.0 or less. New Bryant air systems are available with SEERS as high as 26.0. So a new AC system reduces operating cost by 50% or more.
If your existing AC system dates back to about 2004 or earlier, your system may operate with an obsolete refrigerant (R22). R22 is damaging to the environment, and can not be economically serviced in a residential application so you should strongly consider a system upgrade.
A planned AC system replacement will probably save you money on the cost of the replacement system. Performing an emergency air conditioner replacement during the peak of summer heat may require overtime labor. Replacing your system in a scheduled fashion during regular business hours will ensure an efficient installation process.
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In general, you should replace both the outdoor and indoor sections of your AC system during a replacement.
Current AC systems are rated as "matched systems." This means that the indoor and outdoor units need to be designed to work together to operate at peak efficiency. If you have an older existing AC system, your indoor coil is intended for a less efficient system and will not provide appropriate efficiency with a new outdoor unit.
Your older system may be designed for older R22 refrigerant. R22 coils are not appropriate for use with modern R410A systems.
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All air conditioning manufacturers recommend that a trained HVAC professional service your AC every year. It should be serviced in spring and fall if used as part of a complete heating and cooling system. Annual maintenance, including a thorough examination and cleaning of the parts that commonly malfunction, like the air filter, the outdoor fan, the indoor blower, the refrigerant lines, and any condensation removal systems, will ensure safe operation, prolong equipment life, and sharply reduce the possibility of unanticipated failures.
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There are things you can check if your AC system does not turn on properly:
Check System Power:
Check your circuit breaker panel to ensure your heating system breaker is "ON"”
Check your indoor furnace or air handler system switch. Make sure your "SYSTEM SWITCH" is set to "ON". This switch is typically a traditional toggle switch that may have a RED cover plate.
Thermostat Settings:
Ensure your thermostat is "ON" and set to "COOL" and the desired room temperature is lower than the current ambient temperature.
Batteries: If your thermostat has batteries, change them now.
Indoor Airflow Issues:
Is your furnace or air handler filter clean? Change your furnace filter and restart your system.
Check your duct system inlets and outlets. Are almost all open and clear of obstructions?
Other Issues:
If your thermostat or the system power is off, give it a few minutes after turning the system on; many AC systems have a time-delay function on start-up.
If your system is blowing cool air but is not cooling as well as it should, check your outdoor unit to ensure nothing is blocking airflow through the outdoor coil. PLEASE NOTE: Be careful not to damage the fins on your outdoor coil, and call us if you need help!
If your AC system utilizes a condensate pump, check to ensure it is not full of water. If it is, check the power to the condensate pump. Then, if possible, empty the condensate pump. If the AC system restarts, you may need a professional AC tech to replace the condensate pump.
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This is often caused by a lack of airflow across the indoor coil during cooling. Check and change your indoor air filter. Check to ensure that almost all your indoor grills and registers are open and clear. If it turns out that the filter or closed registers were the problem, turn the system on to "Fan Only" for a few minutes to speed up the thawing of your indoor coil before restarting your AC system.
If the issue continues, your system may have a refrigerant leak. This will have to be tested by a professional.
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Not necessarily. Air conditioners should only be sized to keep up with most of the cooling season. If temperatures are above 35°C, there is a good chance you may not be able to maintain your home at 21°C inside. If an air conditioner is too oversized, it won’t control the humidity in your home most of the summer, causing discomfort.
Luxury Climate
Discover locally owned and operated heating and cooling services in Agassiz, BC, proudly serving Chilliwack, Abbotsford, Hope, and Mission areas. Luxury Climate specializes in premium American Standard unitary equipment installations. We also offer a range of top brands for mini-split and multi-split systems, including Mitsubishi, Fujitsu, Daikin, Tosot, and Moovair.
Our team comprises Red Seal Certified, factory-trained, licensed, and insured technicians with extensive experience in tackling the unique climate challenges of the Fraser Valley. Backed by decades of expertise, we ensure top-notch service quality.
At Luxury Climate, we prioritize excellence, offering industry-leading wages, benefits, and continuous training for our team through UA Local 516. Experience the difference with our dedicated professionals, committed to providing superior heating and cooling solutions tailored to your needs.